Diving Equipment Maintenance

Diligent care and maintenance of your diving equipment can result in many benefits. Among the most important are the assurance of your personal safety, protection of your equipment investment, personal enjoyment underwater and extending the life of your dive gear. Many divers will have an average investment of $1500.00 in basic diving equipment.

This is a substantial financial investment in highly specialized products that have been designed for one purpose and one purpose only, diving. Considering the money invested, it is only logical that you would want to obtain the longest possible use from each and every dive gear component. Much of this equipment (BC, regulator, tank) has an estimated life span of 5 to 25 years.

Safeguarding your investment is one thing but the protection of your life is a far greater incentive. Diving below the surface means entering an alien world where the human body cannot survive for long. Humans do not have gills and thus require life support equipment.

The tank on your back carries the vital air supply and the regulator in your mouth reduces the pressure and delivers this air at just the right rate and volume. The buoyancy compensator helps to adjust trim and provides the emergency buoyancy on the surface should it be needed. Fins provide locomotion while the mask allows you to see and protects the nose from the irritating intrusion of water. The dive suit provides comfort and protection from the cold. All of these items are important to your life. In essence, caring for your equipment is caring for your life and personal safety.

Life support equipment is not limited to just your regulator, tank and BC. Just about every piece of equipment you are wearing contributes in some way to your diving comfort and personal safety. The smallest, most innocent malfunction or breakdown can lead to a series of diver errors, resulting in a serious diving accident, an missing the opportunity to dive. The first rule of dive gear care is to maintain all of your equipment.

What Could Go Wrong ? (Top)

By now you may be wondering to yourself, "What could go wrong?" All sorts of things.

Although diving equipment manufacturers design and construct dive gear to be rugged and long lasting, they cannot prevent abuse or neglect. The underwater world is a tough environment that can eventually destroy any kind of machinery if it is not maintained. The following are just a few examples of what can go wrong if dive gear is not given the proper cleaning and care:

• A broken heel strap on a fin, occurring during a dive, can make it a lot more difficult to swim back to the boat or beach, especially if you are moving against a current.
• Sand or corrosion jammed in the BC power inflator can cause it to stick in the open position, resulting in out of control inflation of the BC. The diver rockets to the surface.
• A neglected or poorly maintained regulator can result in a first stage pressure leak that causes free flowing at the mouthpiece particularly annoying if it happens during the dive.
• Other regulator wear problems can include a mouthpiece breaking off the second stage or sand clogged in the exhalation valve, causing flooding of the second stage.
• A poorly maintained depth gauge can give a false reading.
• An exhausted battery can cause a dive computer to stop working in the middle of a dive.
• A poorly maintained dive light can flood in the middle of a night dive.

All of the equipment emergencies described are the result of owner neglect--not poorly designed equipment. Yet, many times such mishaps are blamed on the manufacturers because some divers do not appreciate the need for regular inspection, cleaning and maintenance of their equipment. When you buy a piece of dive gear, you must accept the responsibility of caring for it.

Sources Of Damage (Top)

Before you can begin to care for your dive gear properly, you must be aware of the many different sources of damage that can cause equipment malfunction, deterioration or breakage. These sources include various minerals, gases and bacteria, as well as owner neglect, misuse or hard use.

Sea water :

Ocean water contains a variety of salts, iodine and other minerals that can cause clogging, jamming or deterioration of your equipment. This is especially true of moving metal parts such as power inflators, regulators, hose connectors and so on.

These dissolved minerals are so corrosive they can eat their way through chrome plating or other protective metal coatings-- if the item is left submerged in sea water for a long enough period of time (months) or the sea water residue is not washed from the item after the dive.

 

Chlorine:

Chlorine and mild acids are added to swimming pool water to retard bacteria, fungus or algae growth. Unfortunately, these chemicals are highly destructive to dive gear and can cause rapid deterioration of face masks, snorkels, fins and other items. All dive gear used in swimming pools should be thoroughly soaked in clean, freshwater to remove any chlorine or acid residue.

 

Sunlight :

Direct rays from tropical sun can be extremely destructive if this exposure is prolonged or repeated frequently. The ultraviolet rays in the sunlight will eventually cause deterioration of rubber or silicone products such as the face mask, fins, wetsuit and so on. For this reason, your dive gear should never be left on the open deck of a dive boat or beach. Strong and direct sunlight can also damage diving instruments such as computers, depth gauges and pressure gauges by overheating and distortion of O ring seals.

 

Ozone :

We hear about ozone these days and how it protects us from the damaging ultraviolet rays of the sun. What they don't tell you is that ozone is found in the air around us as well as in the upper atmosphere. Ozone is a major component in the formation of smog. Although relatively invisible, this gas can be destructive to neoprene dive gear products such as masks, fins, snorkels, regulator mouthpieces and wetsuits.

Fortunately, ozone does not affect silicone products and many manufacturers have switched to this material. If you have any dive gear made of neoprene rubber and live in a smoggy area, you should protect these items by storing them in sealed, plastic bags or other protective, airtight containers.

 

Bacteria :

Small amounts of water (fresh or salt) left inside BC bladders, regulator second stages and dive suits can result in bacteria growth. There are many different strains of bacteria that can grow under these conditions and result in a variety of owner discomforts such as a body rash (from the suit) or a respiratory infection (from the regulator or BC).

 

Oxidation :

Oxidation is a chemical reaction that results from the combining of air and water with a metal surface such as the inside of your scuba tank. If the tank is made of steel, this oxidation is more commonly known as rust. If the item is aluminum or some other metal, the oxidation is often referred to as corrosion--a powdery residue.

Divers can prevent or greatly reduce oxidation by carefully washing and drying their equipment after use. It is particularly important to remove any water that might be trapped under the surface of a tank boot or other partly enclosed area. Internal oxidation in scuba tanks can be avoided by keeping a minimal amount of pressurized, dry air in the cylinder at all times.

 

Sand and silt :

Sand and silt are part of the diving environment as they often constitute the bottom of the dive area. Sand and silt can also come from the ceilings of caves or the interiors of shipwrecks.

As sand and silt particles are floating in suspension, they often find their way into the small crevices of such working parts as the BC power inflator, quick-snap hose connectors, the regulator second stage, the octopus second stage and the purge valve in a mask. Piled up sand or silt particles can cause such items to jam either shut or open, depending on the situation.

Sand and silt particles are also a major menace to O ring seals on such items as dive lights, underwater cameras and strobes and piston type regulator first stages. The tiny sand or silt particles floating in the water tend to stick to the silicone grease on an O ring, causing a small build-up of residue that can eventually cause the O ring to leak.

 

Battery failure :

The small batteries that power dive lights, computers, watches and digital depth gauges will not last forever. Battery exhaustion is simply a question of when. Divers must be continually alert for low battery warnings or develop a routine for regular replacement or charging of batteries.

If using dry cells, dead batteries should be removed as soon as possible, as they could begin to leak and cause internal corrosion. Batteries that can be removed by the user should be replaced between dive trips to avoid electrical shorts or leakage.

 

Leakage or flooding :

Water leakage or flooding can cause an equipment malfunction. This can be especially destructive if it occurs in sea water. Such leakage or flooding is often caused by an O ring seal failure on such items as a dive light or computer that has a user replaceable battery.

Owners must take special care in cleaning and lubricating O rings to remove any build-up of salt crystals, silt or sand residue. Care must also be taken in properly closing any O ring sealed battery compartment, as an ill-fitting O ring will cause immediate flooding.

 

Electrical shorts :

Electrical shorts in such items as dive lights or computers are probably the most mysterious or confusing malfunctions, as they may be intermittent or occur without warning. Such shorts are generally owing to internal corrosion of the wiring or electrical switches possibly caused by an earlier, undetected water leak. It only takes a few drops of water seeping into the interior of these electronic circuits. Over a period of time, this water will corrode wiring, circuit boards or electrical switches.

 

Equipment breakage :

Although dive gear is designed to be tough and rugged, breakage does occur, owing to poor packing or disregard for the equipment. When traveling, dive masks should be packed in protective containers. Sensitive electronic instruments such as dive computers or digital depth gauges should also be packed in a padded, protective container. On board a boat, dive gear should always be stowed out of harm's way, either in a gear locker or under a seat.

 

Wear and tear :

Nothing lasts forever. Over the years, your dive gear will experience normal wear and tear. Regulator mouthpieces will begin to deteriorate, neoprene wetsuits become stiff, swim fin blades begin to split, mask straps break and so on.

Careful inspection of your dive gear will often reveal signs of this type of wear. If detected, the item should be replaced before it breaks. Early detection and replacement is the best way to avoid equipment malfunction during a dive.

Mask maintenance (Top)

The mask is perhaps one of the most fragile components of your dive gear, as it is comprised of a glass face plate, a thin head strap and a skirt with a thin, feathered edge that maintains the seal against your face. Keeping your mask in pristine condition is important to your personal comfort underwater. A leaky mask is no fun for any diver.

Special attention should be devoted to keeping your mask out of strong sunlight so the feathered edge does not become gummy. The mask should be soaked (not just rinsed) at the end of a dive trip and fully dried in the shade (no direct sunlight). It should be stored in a crush proof container for travel, in order to prevent face plate breakage or cracking. Some manufacturers include a plastic storage box with the sale of every mask. This box also keeps your mask skirt safe from rodents or insects--particularly those on tropical islands--that have developed a special taste for silicone.

Inspection

The mask head strap should be inspected periodically (prior to each dive) for cuts, tears or cracking, especially around the buckle areas.

If the mask is equipped with a purge valve, it should be inspected as well. Look for any residue of silt or sand--and clean if necessary. Also check for deterioration of the valve material. If it appears gummy, the valve should be replaced.

If the mask is made of clear silicone, be sure it is never stored or carried touching an item made of neoprene rubber. The black neoprene will cause clear silicone to become discolored.

Also, keep clear silicone masks and snorkels out of direct sunlight, as strong sunlight will cause yellowing of the silicone.

If the mask is made of black neoprene rubber, it should be stored in a sealed plastic bag or airtight container to prevent ozone damage.

Should the glass face plate of your mask become cracked or completely smashed, you will need to bring it to your authorized dive store service centre for replacement. A broken face plate is not considered a field repair job because special tools are sometimes required to install a new face plate.

As for spare parts, you should always carry a spare head strap, ready for immediate replacement if necessary.

If the mask contains a purge valve, it would be a good idea to carry a spare valve since this part is difficult to find when you are on a dive trip. Mask purge valves come in many different sizes and configurations, so be sure to obtain one that fits your mask model.

Fin maintenance (Top)

Fins are some of the most durable components of your dive gear. This is because they are simple in design and constructed for high stress. Yet, dive fins can have their share of problems if not cared for in the correct manner.

As with the mask and snorkel, fins should be soaked in clean, freshwater and dried in the shade. The best way to store fins is to lie them flat so that the blade is not bent or curled. Plastic stiffeners placed in the foot pocket help keep the pocket from collapsing when stored or transported.

Prior to diving, your fins should be inspected in several places.

If they are open heel fins :

Check the heel straps for tears or cracking--especially in the buckle area.

Check the buckle assembly to make sure the swiveling pin is firmly anchored in position.

If you have full foot fins :

Check the heel of the foot pocket for cracks or tears.

Check around the toe area for tears.

These are the two places where full foot fins generally deteriorate first.

With both open heel and full foot fins :

Inspect the fin blades for longitudinal cracks or splitting.

Check the side support ribs for cracking, especially at the high stress areas where the fin blade is bonded to the foot pocket.

In order to prolong the life of your fins, you may wish to periodically apply a silicone spray (pump bottle) to the blades. Do not spray silicone onto the strap or buckle as it will cause the strap to slip.

As for spare parts, you should always carry a pair of spare heel straps if you have open heel fins. Some divers even carry a spare buckle assembly for the heel strap.

Snorkel maintenance (Top)

The snorkel is perhaps one of the simplest pieces of equipment in your dive gear wardrobe but it requires just as much attention and care as the mask. It should be regarded as part of your life support system, as it is the device that allows you to swim on the surface with your face in the water and a heavy scuba tank on your back.

As with the mask, the snorkel should be thoroughly soaked in clean, freshwater at the end of the dive trip. It should be dried in the shade and stored safely so the rigid snorkel tube is not cracked or broken.

Prior to diving, the snorkel should be carefully inspected at a number of points.

Check the joint between the rigid tube and flexible mouthpiece to make sure they are joined solidly.

Inspect the rigid tube for cracks. Inspect the mouthpiece bite tabs for tears or wear.

Inspect the snorkel keeper (sometimes called the snorkel tabs for cracks or tears.

If the snorkel is equipped with one or more purge valves, check these valves for clogging, sand build-up or deterioration (looks gummy).

If the purge valve has deteriorated, it should be replaced. You should carry a spare snorkel keeper and an extra purge valve or set of purge valves.

Weight belt maintenance (Top)

It hardly seems possible that anything could go wrong with a weight belt, but it happens. This simple piece of gear requires minimal maintenance, generally consisting of a soak in freshwater and proper drying.

What normally goes wrong with a weight belt is the open end of the belt begins to fray. The nylon webbing begins to unravel and become bushy, making it difficult to insert the end of the belt into the quick-release buckle.

The belt can easily be repaired with a pair of scissors and a box of wooden matches. Simply cut the end of the weight belt, following the same contour as the original belt end. Then, strike a match and pass the tip of the flame along the newly cut edge of the belt. The heat of the flame will melt the nylon strands--fusing them together and forming a solid edge on the weight belt end. Do not hold the flame too long in one spot or you will form a lump or bubble. If you find you have melted too much material, start over by making a new cut with the scissors.

Other than repairing the frayed end of the belt itself, you may wish to periodically inspect the quick-release buckle. Check the pivot pin to make sure it is solidly anchored in place, allowing the cam action lever to operate freely and form a solid lock on the belt.

Buoyancy Compensator (Top)

The buoyancy compensator is a complex piece of diving equipment that requires a good deal of attention and care. It has a number of moving parts, a low pressure hose connection, an airtight inflation bladder, emergency dump valve and numerous straps, buckles and pockets. Since this device is one of your primary life support components, you should take very good care of it.

Prior to making your first dive :

Assemble your BC and regulator on a tank full of air.

Turn on the tank valve and check your low pressure hose connection to the BC power inflator.

Listen carefully for any signs of air leakage. If the connector is leaking air, it will need to be cleaned and lubricated.

Next, fully inflate the BC and listen carefully for any major air leaks. Leave it inflated for five to ten minutes in order to detect any minor leaks. If you have such a leak, the BC bladder will begin to deflate slowly.

Check the BC's dump valve by pulling on the deflation cord.

Some BCD are designed with a deflation cord or cable mounted inside the inflator hose. By pulling on the inflator mechanism, you can activate the dump valve.

As soon as you have completed the inspection and pre dive checks, you are ready to use your BC.

After each dive, it may be necessary to empty a small amount of water that accumulates inside the BC during normal use. The easiest way to do this is to remove the BC from the tank and tip it upside down so the water can drain out of the inflator hose.

At the end of a dive trip :

The BC should be given a long soak in clean, freshwater.

This procedure allows freshwater to get into all of the small crevices and cracks of the power inflator mechanism, oral inflation/deflation valve, dump valve and other moving parts.

Remove the inflator hose assembly and use a garden hose to fill the bladder with freshwater.

This procedure will help to remove any saltwater that may have accumulated inside. Some divers add a few drops of disinfectant in order to kill or retard any bacteria or fungus growth inside the bladder.

The most important part of the cleaning procedure is drying the BC after soaking and washing.

The BC should be hung upside down with the inflator hose removed so any water can drain out of the bladder. During the drying period, the inflator hose assembly should be shaken several times to dislodge water that may be accumulating in the folds of the hose. Once dried, the BC can be reassembled.

You should also make periodic checks of all working parts--the oral inflation button, the power inflator, the LP hose quick-snap connector and the over pressure valve(s). All working parts should be clear and clean of sand, silt and corrosion.

Some of these components may require disassembly, cleaning and lubrication before assembly. You want all connections to be leak proof and operating smoothly. A jammed valve can be big trouble.

If your BC is not holding air because of a tear or puncture, you may have to bring it to an authorized repair center or ship it back to the manufacturer. Patching a vulcanized BC bladder is not something you can do in the field.

Scuba Tank (Top)

From its rugged appearance, you would think the scuba tank is indestructible. Made of seamless, thick walled metal, the scuba tank looks and feels as if it would last a lifetime. It will, if given proper care, but scuba tanks are just as vulnerable to damage as the rest of your diving equipment.

• Cylinders are constructed of metal and designed to contain extremely high pressures, they must be treated with a great deal of care and respect.
• High pressure tanks should never be handled roughly, thrown about or allowed to fall from the back of a truck or trunk of a car.
• When transporting a scuba tank or a number of tanks, they should be tightly secured so they cannot roll around and bang into each other.
• Scuba tanks should be rinsed with clean fresh water after each dive. During the washing procedure, the tank valve should be fully closed so water or moisture cannot enter the cylinder.
• Inspect for chips and surface damage and have them repaired.
• Replace the O ring, if damaged or not used for some time
• Ensure that the tank is regularly tested in accordance with the manufacturers instructions and the test dates stamped on each cylinder.

Scuba Cylinder Care and Maintenance

Scuba cylinders require additional care and maintenance over and above simply rinsing, drying and storing them between dives. These maintenance procedures include:

• preventing damage to the cylinder exterior and valve.
• preventing moisture from entering the cylinder.
• having the cylinder inspected and tested on a regular basis.

Proper handling

Proper handling of scuba cylinders can help prevent scratches, dents and gouges to their exteriors and damage to valves that could render them inoperable.

Exterior damage to a cylinder can weaken it structurally to the point that it can no longer hold pressure safely. Aluminum cylinders, being made from a softer metal, are particularly susceptible to such damage. Any cylinder that has sustained such damage should be pressure tested before being refilled and used.

Although it would take a significant impact to knock a modern tank valve completely off a cylinder (thus creating the ballistic scuba tank so popular in diving mythology), a modest impact can easily deform the soft brass most tank valves are made of. This can make an expensive cylinder valve inoperable and irreparable

To prevent such damage, scuba cylinders should be handled with care.

Divers should, obviously, avoid dropping them..

When being transported in motor vehicles or boats, tanks should be stored upright in special racks or be laid on their sides and prevented from rolling.

In high-traffic areas, such as pool decks, tanks should ideally be placed on their sides. In some cases, however, divers may have to weigh the possibility of damage to the tank against damage to BCD's, regulators and other equipment that could be damaged if tanks are laid on top of them. This can usually be avoided by laying the tank on its side with any attached equipment on top.

Preventing moisture from entering

Air under pressure contains a high concentration of oxygen, moisture on the inside of a steel scuba cylinder can be especially harmful. Moisture acts as a catalyst in the oxidation (rust-forming) process. Salt laden moisture is even more devastating than moisture from fresh water.

In an oxygen-rich environment, such as a tank's interior, oxidation that takes weeks to occur at normal atmospheric pressure can take place in a matter of days or even hours. Conversely, it is extremely difficult for oxidation to occur in perfectly dry environments, despite the presence of a high concentration of oxygen.

Aluminum cylinders are, of course, nowhere near as prone to damage from moisture. However, moisture in aluminum cylinders can aid in the formation of a scale on the inside of the tank. This scale, if it comes loose, can clog valves and regulators.

For these reasons it is important to keep the insides of cylinders completely free of moisture. One obvious way to do this is to make certain that any compressor used to fill scuba tanks has an adequate and operable moisture-removal system.

It is also important to never breathe a scuba cylinder totally empty. Such cylinders can actually draw moisture in through the regulator or valve.

Most scuba cylinders are filled in containers of water. Under such conditions, it is easy for water droplets to splash onto the filling whip or tank orifice. These can subsequently be forced into the cylinder during the filling process. Care must to taken to prevent this from happening.

For similar reasons, divers should avoid allowing water droplets to become trapped between their tank-valve orifice and regulator. I his can take place between dives when tanks and regulators are often dripping wet.

Cylinders should not be stored for an extended period of time with more than a few hundred pounds of pressure (or a dozen or more bar) in them. This reduces the concentration of oxygen and, consequently, any oxygen-related damage.

Cylinders should also be stored in a upright position so that any damage from moisture will be concentrated at the bottom. Here it is most easily seen, evaluated and treated.

Regular inspection and testing

In US, the standard of practice is to have scuba cylinders visually inspected for damage from moisture and impact every year and pressure tested every five years. These intervals may vary in other countries.

Visual inspections are performed by trained and experienced professionals, usually at retail dive stores.

• The inspection process begins with the removal of the tank boot, bands and valve.
• The exterior of the tank is then inspected for impact damage and corrosion.
• The interior of the cylinder is examined using a special light.
• Dental mirrors may enable the inspector to examine the area around the inside of the tank neck.
• Finally, the valve is checked for smooth operation and its threads lubricated to help prevent galvanic action between the dissimilar metals of the tank and valve.
• Valves may also require periodic overhauls, just like scuba regulators.
• If no corrosion or damage is detected, the cylinder is reassembled and filled.
• A sticker is then placed on the tank which identifies the facility providing the inspection and the month and year in which the inspection was done.

If damage or corrosion is detected, the inspector must decide upon an appropriate course of action.

• Minor scale or the presence of contaminants on the inside of an aluminum cylinder can usually be removed by rinsing with distilled water and drying with warm air.
• Minor oxidation on the inside of a steel cylinder may be best left untreated due to the fact that the process of removing it might actually weaken the cylinder more than the oxidation itself.

Extensive oxidation or deep pitting is treated by either tumbling or sand blasting.

• Tumbling involves putting an abrasive material inside of the cylinder, then placing it on rollers where it is turned over and over until the oxidation is removed.
• Sand blasting forces a stream of abrasive material into the cylinder under pressure to remove oxidation.

These methods also remove a portion of the cylinder wall, any cylinder that has undergone tumbling or sand blasting, or any cylinder that has been subject to impact damage should be pressure tested before use.

Pressure testing is also known as hydrostatic testing, in as much as water is used during the testing process.

The cylinder is filled with water and then placed inside a water-filled, high-pressure chamber.

The water pressure inside the cylinder is then increased to five thirds of it's maximum working pressure.

This is sufficient to cause the cylinder to expand slightly.

This expansion causes the water outside the tank to be displaced.

The displaced water is channeled into marked collection tubes that allow it to be measured.

If the tank's expansion is within acceptable limits, it successfully passes the test. If not, the tank may not be refilled.

After pressure testing, tanks that pass are cleaned and dried, then stamped with the current month and year and the tester's initials.

Wet Suits (Top)

Dive suits constructed of foam neoprene are still the most popular type of dive wear used today. These suits are called wetsuits because they fit close to the skin but allow a thin layer of water to seep inside. This thin film of water is heated to body temperature and insulated from the ambient cold water by the cellular foam. Wetsuits are available in a variety of thickness 2, 3, 4, 5 mm. The one you choose depends upon the insulation desired and the water temperature of the intended dive site.

As with fabric suits, wetsuits require a minimal amount of care.

They should be soaked in clean, freshwater at the end of the diving activity, dried in the shade and carefully stored.

The best way to store a wetsuit is to place it on a clothes hanger as you would a normal suit. This helps avoid creases in the suit material owing to crushing of the cellular foam.

The zipper or zippers should be inspected prior to the dive trip and periodically lubricated with silicone spray or a zipper stick.

The suit should also be inspected for tears, cuts or punctures. Foam neoprene is a soft material that is vulnerable to such damage.

Should you discover any damage, it can be repaired by applying neoprene wetsuit cement to both edges of the torn portion--and then sticking the edges together.

 

Inspect all of the seams of the suit. Most of today's wetsuits have a laminated cloth interior and the seams are both glued and sewn together. If you find thread unraveling at one of the seams, it will have to be sewn with a large needle and strong nylon thread.

Wetsuit maintenance and care require no spare parts other than carrying an airtight can of neoprene cement and a sewing kit.

You should also carry a zipper stick or can of silicone spray for zipper lubrication.

Dry Suits (Top)

Dry suits are designed specifically for diving in cold to very cold water. These suits are more complex in design and much more critical in construction. Dry suits are designed to be completely dry inside so the diver can dress in layers of warm, dry undergarments.

Dry suits are constructed from a variety of materials such as heavy duty foam neoprene, vulcanized rubber or a rubber impregnated fabric (these latter suits are called shells) .

Dry suits require a great deal more attention, with careful inspections prior to every dive.

These suits must remain completely dry inside, as flooding can cause the diver to both sink and suffer hypothermia.

Dry suits should be carefully washed, dried and stored after each dive.

They must be inspected for tears, cuts or punctures.

The zipper must be carefully cleaned and lubricated.

If the dry suit is damaged, it must be repaired before another dive is attempted.

Most dry suit manufacturers also produce a complete field repair kit that the owner can use for maintenance and patching.

Dive Light maintenance (Top)

Divers experience more problems and failures with dive lights than any other single piece of diving equipment. This is because dive lights must be opened and closed frequently to changed the batteries. Each time you open and close the dive light, there is the risk of dislodging the O ring and the result is a leak or flooding. In many cases, this sort of user error is blamed on the equipment manufacturer and the unfortunate dive light is unfairly branded as being defective.

A dive light requires more care, closer inspection and more cleaning than any other piece of basic dive gear.

The light should be soaked in fresh, clean water after every dive, not just at the end of a trip.

It should be dried in the shade and never exposed to direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time.

The light should be stored in a cool, dry environment. Avoid any contact with excessive heat, as this can cause the 0 ring groove to deform, thus contributing to a possible leak.

Every time you open a dive light to either replace or charge the batteries, you should carefully inspect the O ring seal. If there is the slightest sign of sand particles, silt residue or dried salt crystals, remove the O ring and clean it.

The O ring should be wiped clean and lubricated with a thin coating of silicone grease: The coating should be so thin that the O ring appears moist but not greasy. The O ring groove should also be cleaned--using a cotton swab or a small piece of cloth to wipe away any dirt or residue. Finally, the O ring should be carefully fitted into its groove and the dive light reassembled.

There are two types of dive lights:

1) those powered by disposable dry cells

2) those powered by rechargeable nickel-cadmium batteries.

Dive lights that operate on disposable batteries are the easiest to maintain. You simply remove the exhausted batteries and replace them. Always bring along fresh, recently purchased batteries, as these are likely to contain the greatest amount of energy. Also, purchase alkaline dry cells, as this type of battery lasts longer than a standard dry cell.

Make sure you purchase the right size, as different dive light models are powered by different size batteries. The most commonly used batteries are AA C and D-cells. Some mini lights (pencil size) operate on AAA batteries.

Dive lights that use rechargeable nickel-cadmium batteries require more attention because you must charge the batteries frequently.

Most of today's rechargeable dive lights have removable power packs so you can insert a fully charged set of batteries and use the light while the exhausted batteries are being charged. Rechargeable batteries will last for quite a long time--1,000 charges or more. Dive light manufacturers provide instructions on how to maintain rechargeable for the longest burn time and the greatest battery life. In addition to battery maintenance or replacement, you should carry at least one spare bulb. Dive light bulbs do not last forever and it is difficult to predict when a bulb will burn out. You should periodically examine the bulb to see if it is turning black.

Most bulbs will begin to develop a black coating inside the glass surface as the filament gradually vaporizes. If the bulb is noticeably black, it is probably time to replace it. You would not want the bulb to burn out in the middle of your night dive or cave exploration. Preventive maintenance is a lot easier than crisis management.

One important point about bulb replacement: Dive light bulbs are not standard. It seems as if every manufacturer produces lights that utilize different sizes and types of bulbs. In fact, some manufacturers produce a variety of dive light models that use different bulbs. Make sure you obtain the specific type and model bulb for your particular dive light.

If you use two different dive lights (one as a backup), make sure you have spare bulbs for both of them. In some cases the bulb is part of the reflector module. When replacing a bulb, use a cotton glove or piece of cloth to handle it and take care not to touch the surface of the reflector. Your fingers contain oil and acids that can tarnish the reflector with just a mere touch.

When transporting your dive light or storing it for prolonged periods, remove the batteries. This is true whether your dive lights operate on disposable dry cells or rechargeable. You do not want your light to accidentally switch on during travel, as it can burn out the bulb or totally discharge the batteries.

Batteries that are left inside a dive light for prolonged periods can begin to leak acid and cause extensive internal corrosion that can render your light unusable.

Should your light suddenly go out during a dive--and you know your batteries are fresh or newly charged-- there is an excellent chance you are experiencing either a bulb burnout or a flooding. If the light goes on and off intermittently there may be slight water leakage or poor battery contact. Whatever the behavior of the light, it should be immediately examined upon returning to the surface.

Disassemble the light as soon as possible. If water comes pouring out, you have a flooding. If this is the case, immediately remove the batteries and dump out the water. The interior of the light should be soaked in clean, freshwater in order to wash away any salts, acids or other contaminants.

Chances are, the batteries are ruined and you may want to throw them away. If it is an expensive rechargeable power pack, you can try to wash them down and charge them but this routine does not always work.

 

Once the light is fully washed, lay out all the parts and dry them.

Carefully inspect all electrical contacts and wire connections for possible corrosion.

Make a careful inspection of the O rings and try to determine the source of the flooding.

Clean and lubricate the O rings.

Reassemble the light with a new bulb and new set of batteries.

Above all, apply first aid immediately-- never let a dive light sit flooded for any prolonged period of time.

Your dive light can last many years if you give it a lot of tender, loving care.

REGULATORS (Top)
The obvious place to start is with your regulator, which is your life support system while under water. It must, therefore, be in maximum operating mode at all times.

When: Always have your regulator serviced at least once each year, even if you haven't used it. Sounds like a make work project, but it's not. O' rings can dry out, dust can accumulate and if the regulator wasn't cared for properly, water, sand or salt could have caused some damage. All regulators require annual servicing to maintain warranty, but even if your regulator is out of its warranty period, it's a good idea to keep it properly serviced. How often depends on how much diving you do and where. If you're an average recreational diver doing 20 to 50 dives a year, then once a year is fine. If you're diving more often - then every 50 - 75 dives is a better rule of thumb.

What's involved: Proper servicing of a regulator involves striping the regulator down to its parts, cleaning each thoroughly using a sonic cleaner, then rebuilding it. This applies to the first stage, primary second stage and octopus. Then the system must be tested and balanced to ensure the various parts are working together correctly. (So the answer to the question posed in the first paragraph is NO - regulator servicing takes too long to wait!). Your pressure gauge swivel should be serviced. How long it takes depends on the complexities of the regulator, but we suggest you plan on a week. Faster turn around is possible in an emergency, but it usually means bumping someone else!

What parts get changed each year? Often that's left to the technician's discretion. But many regulator companies provide kits with all the required parts - everything in the kit must be changed, eliminating any subjectivity on the technician's part. This might be something you want to ask about before purchasing a regulator.

KNIVES (Top)

Dive knives should be cared for after every dive. The knife should be thoroughly dried, lightly siliconed and replaced in a dry sheath.

At the beginning of the season, check your knife for rust and sharpness. Rust can be removed using a rust eraser. Then lightly silicone it and promise yourself you'll take better care of your knife this season!

Don't forget to check the knife straps and buckles.